Swanson's LogoIt may be the dead of winter in Seattle, but it is actually time to start thinking about planting for spring and summer.  And if you are adding trees, roses, shrubs, or berries to your landscape, bare root plants may be a great choice. However, you have to be on your toes, because there is a small window for purchasing and planting bare root shrubs and trees. I know this, as last year I went to Swanson’s Nursery in March to buy a very specific raspberry plant only to find out that “bare root season” was over.

In an effort to keep from missing it again, I put a trip to Swanson’s on my calendar for mid-January.  I love Swanson’s Nursery, not just because they have beautiful plants and a friendly expert team, but because it is situated on a park like piece of property full of old growth trees and no shortage of landscaping idea. Did you know they have been in business for over 90 years? Nursery hours are 9am to 5 daily, and I also recommend breakfast at Seasons Café (same hours apply).  The Oatmeal with toppings is like a breakfast sundae, and I also love the Italian style breakfast sandwich with fresh mozzarella, basil, and tomato. Right next door is a gift shop with carefully curated books, jewelry, and lovely artisan scarves. I’ll remember this little gem before my wife’s birthday. But I digress. Back to plants.

What does “bare root” actually mean and why are they so great? Gabriel Maki, Tree and Shrub Manager/Buyer, was kind enough to allow me to interview him, and he made me an expert.

“A bare root plant is a plant that has been carefully dug up while it is in its dormant state. Soil is removed from the Bare-Root_Treesroots, and the plant is packaged (usually in moist wood shavings) for short term storage and shipping.”  Dormant. Now I understand. But what makes them so great? Why do people rave about “bare root plants”?

“Well, first of all bare root plants are less costly than trees and shrubs that come to us in containers, sometimes more than half the price. Bare root plants weigh far less, and therefore take up less space and fuel in transit to the nursery. Because of their smaller size and easier handling, nurseries are able to stock a wider variety of trees and shrubs”. OK, now it was starting to make sense. I also learned that when you dig up a shrub or tree with a “tree spade”, you yield 200% more roots than if you use a root harvester and bag the root ball in burlap.  More roots, better outcome. There is also more of the rich field soil left behind for the next crop of trees to grow. All very good for trees, farmers and customers.

So I asked Gabrielle, if these plants are so great, why can’t all plants be bare root? “Only plants that go dormant in winter and are not susceptible to root rot offer good results. Many deciduous ornamental trees, fruit trees, roses, shrubs, and berry bushes are good candidates. Since evergreens don’t usually have a true dormant period and are susceptible to root rot, they are not good candidates.” Got it. Dormancy.

Now that I understood the why’s of bare root plants, I wanted to know how to get these things that look like a bag of sticks with a bare root ball in the ground and growing. Gabrielle said there are 4 important steps to planting.

  • Don’t just stick them in the ground. “Gently unwrap the plant and place the roots in a bucket of water about 6 hours before planting. This will hydrate the roots after and help the plant survive the shock of being planted.”

 

  • Dig the hole slightly deeper and wider than the root spread. Create a small mound down in the middle of the hole that the tree can sit on. Don’t tuck the roots, but flare them out around the tree. “If some of the roots are too long, it’s OK to give the roots a little trim”. It turns out giving the roots a haircut is better than tucking. Yet another lesson that translates from my childhood. A haircut is always better than tucking “out of compliance” locks under your collar. The nuns will catch you every time. And don’t plant the tree too deep. “Plant so that the soil is in line with the root collar”. What’s a root collar, I asked? “It is an obvious ring or line you can see on the tree trunk where the soil was when the tree was in the field”. Now I see it!

 

  • Water, water, and more water. “While the tree is becoming established, it needs lots of water. Not just a sprinkle, but a good soaking every few days through the spring and summer months”. This really surprised me, as I think of our climate as downright soggy. “While we are wet from November to April, we are generally quite dry in the late spring and summer. Last year we had less rainfall than New Mexico between May and October”. Keep it moist. Soaker hoses work really well, and there are doughnut shaped soakers just for young trees. “Only use the tree watering bags if your tree is in a parking strip or other hard to reach area where a hose would be dangerous or inconvenient. Those bags are great, but they require 20 gallons of water to fill.” That’s a lot of water!

 

  • What about fertilizer? “Fertilizer isn’t needed right now, but in late April work some into the soil around the base of the tree. I recommend Dr. Earth Organic Fertilizer.”

Any parting words? “We sell out of bare root plants every year. Check our website for updates, and call us if you are looking for something specific, but we recommend folks get here sometime between the end of January to the end of February for the best selection”. Don’t I know it. Raspberries weren’t in this week, but I will be there bright and early next week to pick out my varieties! And, I have just the place in my yard for a beautiful flowering Dogwood. But first stop, Seasons Café for another Oatmeal Sundae.